You can hardly enjoy leisurely at the restaurant now as it is filled with the din of laughter, conversation and the constant clatter of plates and dishes. You first squeeze past the crowd jammed into the front entryway to check in with the host. A loudspeaker blares names and table numbers. When your number finally comes up, hostesses in cheongsam leadyou into the dining room, where you join the hundreds of diners seated at large round tables. Waitresses in uniforms wheel stainless-steel carts with little plates and stacks of small steamer baskets filled dim sum and other delicacies. Then you can start to yum cha (literally "to drink tea"). The cha part means tea whereas the yum part refers to the food.